Sunday at the beach, before all hell broke loose
One of the reasons we chose to live where we live is because our little apartment complex is only about 15 minutes' drive from Maracas Bay, one of the most popular beaches in Trinidad. It's a really pretty spot, with a large parking lot to accommodate visitors, lots of little food stands selling "shark-and-bake", a local delicacy, and a pretty decent beach to hang out and people watch. Most of the time, the beach looks like this,
Maracas beach, circa March 2005
so as you can imagine, it doesn't usually take much to convince us to go.
Yesterday, however, was a bit different. We'd risen early, intent on taking a drive to shoot some pictures for an article I was going to write for submittal to a few magazines, and our drive wasn't going to take us anywhere near Maracas. However, within the span of about 15 minutes, 2 different friends of ours called to coax us into coming to lime (Trini for "hang out") with them at Maracas. Even though we'd already made plans; and, frankly, we generally avoid Maracas on Sundays (traditionally when most people go, and therefore, the beach is really crowded), we decided that nothing was worth missing a good lime, so off we went.
(Aside: Methinks I'm going to have to concentrate a bit on my work ethic, don't you?)
Anyway, Marcus, Alex and I piled into the pick-up, and off we went. As we drove over the mountain and down toward the sea, Marcus started to quiver with excitement.
"What the hell is wrong with you?" I said in my usual loving manner.
"Surf," he murmured.
If you've been reading this site for a while, you know that Marcus has a passion for mountain biking, to the point where I daren't ask which he loves more: me, or his brand new Turner mountain bike -- because, frankly, there are just some questions the answers to which I never really need to know. However, the truth is, Marcus' love for mountain biking is exceeded only by his obsession with surfing. He adores it. Why, back in Cornwall, when he was but a mere lad, he used to surf in January, with a helmet, in order to protect his head in the entirely-too-likely event that one of the frigid waves of the Celtic Sea decided to smash him against the rocks.
Yes, I know. Whaddya want from me -- I married him for his looks, not his logic.
Anyway, by the time we pulled into the parking lot, unloaded our stuff, and crossed the street to get onto the beach, Marcus was positively vibrating with excitement. I looked out at the ocean: the waves were cresting at an uncharacteristic seven feet high, before crashing into a whirling vortex of steaming hot death. I'd never seen the sea look so angry. I looked at Marcus in disbelief.
He grinned, clenching his boogie-board.
"I'm goin' in!!!"
I looked at Peter, one of the friends we'd come to meet, pleading for help with my eyes. I'm not sure why I did this, since Peter is Australian, and as everyone knows, all Australians are known for drinking huge cans of beer and fighting crocodiles. Peter's also a huge surfer as well, so in hindsight, at the time I should've thought Peter would be the last person to look to for assistance.
However, this time, Peter didn't fail me:
"Aw, come on, mate!" he said. (Okay, he didn't really say "mate." I just don't know how to do an Australian accent in written form.) "You're not really going in there, are you?"
"Psssh-yeaaaaah!!!" was Marcus' eloquent response. "You coming?"
And because testosterone is a bitch, Peter followed Marcus into the Sea of Satan, leaving his wife Joanna and I staring at each other helplessly.
For the hour or so that they were in the water, Joanna and I spent the entire time moving our daughters further and further inland as the Waves of Hades came closer and closer to their sandcastles. We'd no sooner rearrange their shovels and other beach toys, sitting them down to peacefully play in the sand, a wave would come all the way inland, destroying their sand structures, and if we weren't fast enough, knocking them completely over. By the time the men returned to shore, Joanna and I were hot, sweaty, and glowering behind the tree line, while our kids tried to make a castle with the debris and cigarette butts lying in the remaining sand -- the beach was rapidly disappearing.
"Joanna, you wouldn't believe it the conditions of the water out there," Peter said, dripping. "The waves are real sucky*. Not very good for surfing."
I looked at Marcus, who was beside himself with glee. "Yeah, I couldn't get much of a good ride, but the POWER, man! Incredible. Just incredible."
"Well, IncrediBoy, I want to go take some pictures. Can you watch Alex for a second?"
"Sure, I ... HOLY SHIT."
"What?" I asked, and followed his gaze out to sea.
There, just starting to crest, was a 12 foot wave. It was huge. Marcus looked at Peter. "That thing's coming here. We need to move everything."
We all scrambled to whisk deck chairs, beach toys, coolers, towels and daughters inland, narrowly missing getting soaked ourselves. By the time we'd dumped our stuff, we were halfway to the roadway.
"I don't get it." I said. "Shouldn't the tide be going out by now? Is there a storm offshore that I just don't know about?"
"There is, actually," Marcus said. "It was on one of my surf sites -- it's about 100 miles offshore. But I didn't really expect the surf here today. This is unreal."
Lifeguard at Maracas making like David Hasselhoff in the face of one of the smaller waves, Sunday, October 16, 2005
Even the lifeguards, normally a laconic and bored-looking bunch, had leapt to attention, blowing whistles and shouting at people to get out of the water. Every now and then they'd glance at each other, with clear "What the ...?" expressions on their faces. When Marcus asked one of them what was going on, they were obviously as confused as we were.
Since by this time there wasn't much usable beach for the kids, we decided it wasn't worth it and headed home. It was about noon.
Turns out, we made the right decision. At about 2 p.m., according to the local papers, two 25-foot waves crashed ashore, washing away everything in their paths. No one was injured, thank goodness, but people lost their towels and deckchairs, and more critical items like cell phones and car keys. Unfortunate shark-and-bake vendors in the car park on the other side of the street were completely flooded out. One poor man almost lost his child -- luckily however, the baby was saved.
In speaking to another friend of mine later that evening, she was gushing as much as we were. "Wasn't that amazing?" she said. "And apparently, the waves are supposed to be bigger tomorrow. Surfers from all over are coming to Maracas to ride the waves!"
Dear God, please don't let Marcus find out.
____________
*As Marcus explained to me later, "sucky" is surfer-talk for when a wave crests and crashes on top of itself, creating an undertow at its base, thereby pulling a hapless surfer into the wave, and resulting in a disappointingly short ride. Who knew.